Google +

So, you’ve gone to all the trouble of making your personal Google + page welcoming and you’ve set up a linked business account.  But, first time you try to log in from your phone, link to it from Facebook or post from the Internet, you can’t for the life of you get it to go to your business page – everything you do goes to your personal page – arrrggghhh.

Sound familiar???

Luckily, there’s a really easy solution :)

1)  Log in to your G+ personal page

2)  Hover over the Profile button (top left just below the Google + logo) and open pages

3)  Click Manage this Page on your G+ Business Page

4)  From the Dashboard drop-down list, select Settings and make sure the Setting Tab is open

5)  Scroll down until you see Third-party tools and click Set up a Password

Go through the steps to create a @pages email address and password.  This email address doesn’t allow you to send and receive emails but it will allow you to log in/link to your business page instead of your personal page.

You can use these details to post from your smartphone, iPad, etc.
You can use it to set up a G+ tab on your Facebook Page
You can, if you use WordPress, use it to post directly to G+, Facebook and Twitter with the JetPack Plugin.

If you use the Chrome Browser, you can set up different user log ins and this can be one of them.  Use it with the G+ button extension and you can directly +1 anything from the web.

Nifty, eh!!!

FREE Princess Headband Tutorial

PRINCESS HEADBAND

To fit newborn (14-16″) – tie length adjustable if desired.

You will need around 30 m cotton yarn in double knit/light worsted weight thickness, a 3.50 mm hook, 41 mini beads and a needle for neatening ends.

042

Pattern/tutorial uses UK terms throughout.

ABBREVIATIONS

ch – chain
dc – double crochet (US single crochet)
htr – half treble (US half double crochet)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
ss – slip stitch
tr – treble (US double crochet)

SPECIAL STITCHES/METHODS

Threading beads:  Dip the end of the yarn in PVA/white glue, twist in the natural direction as the plies and leave to dry before threading.

Picot:  2ch, ss in 2nd ch from hook – chains for picot will be in addition to any ch already made.

PATTERN

Thread 36 beads onto yarn.

030

With beads now threaded, commence with a ch approximately 20 cm (8”) in length.

031

Row 1:         (Starting in 2nd ch from hook) ss in each ch to end – tie made.

032

Row 2:         3ch, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) all into end of tie,

033

turn.

034

Row 3:         1ch, (bring up a bead, 1ch) 3 times,

035

(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) all into ch-1 sp,

036

 

turn.

037

Rep Row 3 until 11 groups of 3 beads have been worked.

038

Final Row:  1ch, (bring up a bead, 1ch) 3 times, 1ch, ss in ch-1 sp,

039

make a chain approximately 20 cm (8”) in length,

040

(starting in 2nd ch from hook) ss in each ch to end – second tie made, ss in ch-1 sp.

041

Fasten off, neaten ends and proceed to FLOWER (optional).

042

FLOWER
(tutorial to follow next week)

Thread 5 beads onto yarn.

With beads now threaded, commence with 5dc in a magic ring – instructional video can be found here if needed:  http://thomasinacummings.co.uk/double-loop-magic-ring/

Rnd 1:        (RS) *ss to next st, 8ch, (starting in 2nd ch from hook) ss in next ch, 1dc in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 1tr in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 1dc in next ch, ss in final ch, rep from * around – 5 petals.

Rnd 2:        (RS) ss in each st to tip of petal, bring up a bead, 1ch, ss in each st to base of petal, rep from * around, ss to base of first petal to finish.

Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8”) tail.

Weave tail to centre wrong side of the flower.

Carefully bring each petal to the centre, catch the underside of the tip (so that the bead isn’t hidden) and pull tightly into place.

Repeat for all 5 petals and securely stitch in place with remaining tail.

Crochet Headband with Flower

Fasten off and neaten ends.

 

Crochet Gifts

This month I took part in a secret handmade gift exchange with the Mad Mad Makers.  No matter how much I stalked my giftee, I was still really nervous about whether she’d like it or not.  I was convinced I’d pick up on the wrong signs as I trawled her Facebook, Pinterest, etc for clues :O

Today I woke to the happy news that she had not only received it, (a minor miracle in itself if you knew how close to the weight/size limit I’d got), but that she liked it ♥

Phew, I’m one happy gift sender :)

My giftee (the awesome Cassie from Scarlet’s Corner) was in the US so I wanted to send a little bit of Wales/UK in the parcel – this came in the form of English and Welsh Tea (yup, they do make it), chocolate, jelly babies, sweets and a Welsh love-spoon.

But, my main gifts were to be handmade.  I dithered about this for such a long time – I mean, what do you make for the lady who has the talent to make it all herself?!?  One-by-one I eliminated all forms of clothing, jewellery and scents and finally settled on something for the home.

The first was a little owl hanging, stiffened using cornstarch which was a first for me –  this info from Heritage Heartcraft was great for guiding me through this process.  I decided against using my microwave as it’s a monster of a machine.  But, even on the hob, it only took minutes to prepare.  I later added some tassels to the bottom of the owl but, since I forgot to take piccies, here he is sans feathers ;)

019

My second gift was actually quite simple but I love how it turned out.  I took a plain shadow box frame and a sheet of modern floral paper.  To make it a little more special, I crocheted some flowers to match those in the design, overlaid them to create a 3D image (which extended out of the aperture into the surround) and finished it all off with a little bit of bling!

015

I’m so glad she liked it but, indirectly, I may have got more out of this than my giftee did ;)  I enjoyed making the picture so much, (and I have since had so many ideas for filling the frame), that I think I may have found myself another hobby to keep me out of mischief ;)

Crochet Baby Props

If like me, you like instant (or at least same day) gratification, it’s likely that you would much prefer to sit down and make a baby item than an adult one.  So, it’s no surprise when I look back and find that the majority of my pattern stock is for baby items – in particular crocheted hats and photo props.

Hats are a big favourite of mine and, while I try to include a range of sizes up to adult, there is nothing sweeter than seeing them on a sweet little newborn or a cute little toddler with a cheeky grin.

Today, I would like to share some of my all-time-favourite pictures.  All photographs have been provided by the amazing Sarah from Sweetpea Photography.

Are they not the cutest bunch of babies – so many lucky mums and dads – thank you all ♥

All patterns are available on Ravelry – If you have any problem finding one of them just give me a shout and I’ll be more than happy to search out the direct link.

 

One Colour Illusion Crochet

ONE COLOUR SHADOW ILLUSION CROCHET

Some while back, I released a pattern for this guitar afghan.

GEDSC DIGITAL CAMERA

Since then, many people have asked me how it’s worked and how the chart was created. Hopefully, this will answer both those questions.

Creating the pattern

Begin by creating a chart for your design – I will use a heart as an example.  You can use graph paper but the process is much quicker using spreadsheet software (MS Excel or Google Spreadsheets are perfect)

 

When crocheting later, each ‘shadow’ requires two rows.  For that reason, it is best to repeat each row twice when planning your design.  This will ensure a good representation of the designed shape in the final item.

Photo 0

To make it easier to work with the chart, now that we have designed our image, we can remove the duplicate rows and make the picture squishy!

Photo 1

The next step is to work along each row, merging cells of the same colour.

Photo 1a

Working row by row, count each of the white spaces and label them as sc (single crochet).

Photo 2

Still working row by row, count each of the coloured spaces and label them as FLhdc – this is simply a half double crochet worked in the free loop (more about this later).

Photo 3

Do not be alarmed by the distorted shape.  The squares have just been expanded so that you can see the writing clearly.

You now have the odd numbered rows designed.  The next step is to translate this into a written form and add the even numbered rows.  For a small chart (as per this example, this is easy enough to type out manually).  However, there is an automated method which can save hours of time on a large chart. 

Note:  If doing this manually, you need to write each row, from the top to the bottom.

  1. Highlight the chart area and copy
  2. Into a blank document (Word or similar) click Paste Special and keep text only.
  3. Using find and replace, enter ^w in the find box and a comma and a space in the replace box, then click replace all.

Find and Replace

Note:  If using Google Docs, you can leave the find box empty.

The resulting text should now look like this:

19sc,
19sc,
19sc,
6sc, 1FLhdc, 5sc, 1FLhdc, 6sc,
5sc, 3FLhdc, 3sc, 3FLhdc, 5sc,
4sc, 5FLhdc, 1sc, 5FLhdc, 4sc,
3sc, 13FLhdc, 3sc,
4sc, 11FLhdc, 4sc,
5sc, 9FLhdc, 5sc,
6sc, 7FLhdc, 6sc,
7sc, 5FLhdc, 7sc,
8sc, 3FLhdc, 8sc,
9sc, 1Flhdc, 9sc,
19sc,
19sc,
19sc, 

Warning!  The next step is the most tedious of the whole process :O

We need to precede each row with the reverse of the next replacing each FLhdc with BLsc.

BLsc is simply a single crochet worked in the back loop of the stitch (as with the FLsc, we will look at this in more detail later).  In the case of a symmetrical pattern such as this, our job is a lot easier.

We now have text that looks like this.

19sc,
19sc
19sc,
19sc,
19sc,
19sc,
6sc, 1BLsc, 5sc, 1BLsc, 6sc,
6sc, 1FLhdc, 5sc, 1FLhdc, 6sc,
5sc, 3BLsc, 3sc, 3BLsc, 5sc,
5sc, 3FLhdc, 3sc, 3FLhdc, 5sc,
4sc, 5BLsc, 1sc, 5BLsc, 4sc,
4sc, 5FLhdc, 1sc, 5FLhdc, 4sc,
3sc, 13BLsc, 3sc,
3sc, 13FLhdc, 3sc,
4sc, 11BLsc, 4sc,
4sc, 11FLhdc, 4sc,
5sc, 9BLsc, 5sc,
5sc, 9FLhdc, 5sc,
6sc, 7BLsc, 6sc,
6sc, 7FLhdc, 6sc,
7sc, 5BLsc, 7sc,
7sc, 5FLhdc, 7sc,
8sc, 3BLsc, 8sc,
8sc, 3FLhdc, 8sc,
9sc, 1BLsc, 9sc,
9sc, 1Flhdc, 9sc,
19sc,
19sc,
19sc,
19sc,
19sc,
19sc,

Our final task is to add row numbers, a turn at the end of each row and get on with the fun bit of working the pattern.  Oh, and, since our piece is 19sc wide, we need to start with 20 chain and we will begin by working our first sc in the second of these chain.

Pattern

Commence with 20ch.

Row 1:               (Starting in 2nd ch from hook) 19sc, turn.
Row 2:               19sc, turn.
Row 3:               19sc, turn.
Row 4:               19sc, turn.
Row 5:               19sc, turn.
Row 6:               19sc, turn.
Row 7:               6sc, 1BLsc, 5sc, 1BLsc, 6sc, turn.
Row 8:               6sc, 1FLhdc, 5sc, 1FLhdc, 6sc, turn.
Row 9:               5sc, 3BLsc, 3sc, 3BLsc, 5sc, turn.
Row 10:            5sc, 3FLhdc, 3sc, 3FLhdc, 5sc, turn.
Row 11:            4sc, 5BLsc, 1sc, 5BLsc, 4sc, turn.
Row 12:            4sc, 5FLhdc, 1sc, 5FLhdc, 4sc, turn.
Row 13:            3sc, 13BLsc, 3sc, turn.
Row 14:            3sc, 13FLhdc, 3sc, turn.
Row 15:            4sc, 11BLsc, 4sc, turn.
Row 16:            4sc, 11FLhdc, 4sc, turn.
Row 17:            5sc, 9BLsc, 5sc, turn.
Row 18:            5sc, 9FLhdc, 5sc, turn.
Row 19:            6sc, 7BLsc, 6sc, turn.
Row 20:            6sc, 7FLhdc, 6sc, turn.
Row 21:            7sc, 5BLsc, 7sc, turn.
Row 22:            7sc, 5FLhdc, 7sc, turn.
Row 23:            8sc, 3BLsc, 8sc, turn.
Row 24:            8sc, 3FLhdc, 8sc, turn.
Row 25:            9sc, 1BLsc, 9sc, turn.
Row 26:            9sc, 1Flhdc, 9sc, turn.
Row 27:            19sc, turn.
Row 28:            19sc, turn.
Row 29:            19sc, turn.
Row 30:            19sc, turn.
Row 31:            19sc, turn.
Row 32:            19sc, turn.

Reading the pattern

So, now we come to the practical bit -how to work the stitches.  As you probably know crochet stitches, can be viewed as back loops, front loops and both loops.

back front both

For this pattern to work, the stitches are worked as you would normally work them, other than this placement.

  1. All single crochet (sc) are worked in both loops
  2. All back loop single crochet (BLsc) are worked in the back loop only
  3. All front loop half double crochet (FLhdc) are worked in the free loops only

So, “What are the free loops?” I hear you ask.  This becomes more apparent when you begin working but, it will be the unused loops in the previous row that lay behind the stitches like this:

Free Loops

So there it is.  You can now create a chart for any one coloured shadow crochet piece.  And, the result…..the most amazing textured item that you can use in so many ways.

Heart in Frame

I hope you enjoyed seeing how the guitar afghan was created.  Perhaps after making this, you will be confident enough to experiment with your own designs.

Copyright Thomasina Cummings Designs 2014, All Rights Reserved

Thomasina Cummings

March 14, 2014

Having spent the best part of the morning installing Jetpack, setting up sharing and generally losing my way around my own website, I think I may have finally had a EUREKA moment.

If that really is the case, this blog post should automatically appear on my G+ business page.
Furthermore, I’m only a click away from posting it to Twitter and Facebook at the same time….okay, one bridge at a time, eh ;)

Crochet Conch Shells

Bring a touch of the seaside to your home with these highly textured 3D conch shells.

Crochet Conch Shells

Fun, unusual and a great way to use up oddments of cotton yarn.

YOU WILL NEED 100% smooth cotton or similar, an appropriate sized hook and a needle for neatening ends.

You will need around 11 yds (10 m) for the small shell and 33 yds (30 m) for the large.

Thread, 4ply, fingering, DK and worsted weights are recommended (with thicker yarns reserved for larger shell).

When worked in DK (at gauge), the small shell measures approximately 7.5 cm (3”) and the large shell approximately 15 cm (6”). Size will, of course, vary depending on yarn selection.

Items may be stiffened after working, if desired. However, a good stiff cotton should hold its shape well without.

This pattern is available for download in both US and UK terms.
Both versions are fully tested.

Swing into Spring Crochet Jacket Pattern

This classic swing crochet jacket pattern, in sizes 0-18 months, is worked top down with minimal seaming – instructions are provided to eliminate seams completely by working sleeves in rounds instead of rows.

The design features a fitted top, a full skirt and flower shaped button fasteners.

The ‘skirt’ section is designed to finish mid- thigh but is adjustable for a custom length.

YOU WILL NEED: 400-800 m Aran yarn and a 4.50 mm hook for the jacket, 50 m 4ply (fingering) yarn and a 2.50 mm hook for the fasteners, 4 buttons and a needle for neatening ends.

Buttons used in sample measure 2 cm (3/4”) in diameter. Depending on the finished size of your fasteners, this may vary.

GAUGE: 13sts and 8 rows to 4” across spaced UK trebles (US double crochet).

Pattern is written in UK terms with a table of US equivalents provided as applicable.

Pattern is fully tested.

Ridged Kerchief Style Cowl

This kerchief-style cowl makes a great accessory for any wardrobe.

The ridged pattern is soft, stretchy and full of texture. The twisted shell edging adds even more texture and eye catching detail.

Ridged Kerchief

The basic pattern is sized to have a 60 cm (24”) neck opening but this is fully adjustable.

Instructions are provided for varying the size – the shaping works equally well from bandana bib to full-size shawl.

YOU WILL NEED (for the size given): 400m double knit yarn, a 3.50 mm hook and a needle for neatening ends.

The sample shown was worked in Patons 100% mercerised cotton.

GAUGE: 10sts and 10 rows to 5 cm (2”) in patterned rib.

The pattern is worked flat, in rows, to produce a triangular shawl shape. This is then joined when working the neck edging. If desired, the size can be enlarged to make a shawl.

The pattern is written in UK terms with a table of US equivalents provided as applicable.

Pattern has been fully tested.